I have, at Zane Caplansky’s brand-spanking-new restaurant. And it was awesome.

Well, technically, it was brunch: Smoked-meat hash with eggs and latkes. And challah toast. And coffee. And then some more coffee, just because.

Caplansky’s is a fine replacement for the dearly departed Coleman’s, which closed unexpectedly earlier this year. Zane and I have clearly had the same childhood; he’s taken precisely the same things away from the deli meals of our youth that I have, and is now making marvelous new dishes that build on those shared memories.

His smoked-meat hash is salty and vivid and not oily at all; the potato latkes are fluffy and crunchy without a trace of the congealed heaviness most deli latkes carry in the center. And I mentioned the challah toast, right? And there’s Vernor’s in the soda cooler; it’s not Cel-ray, but it’ll do.

Doesn’t spin you? Check out the menu; I’m sure you’ll find something that appeals. And if you can’t, I’m sorry, but you’re just not trying.